Jack Geldard (UK)
Date of Birth:
15/01/81
I began climbing at the age of 12 on my local gritstone outcrops of Yorkshire. Since then I have climbed all over the world, in all styles, from big walls to boulders and it is this variety that keeps me motivated.
I am primarily a traditional rock climber, and I have made first ascents in the UK up to E8/9 (such as Spinal Crack and Rocky, on the mountain crags of Wales). I climb mainly ground up/on sight and have onsighted several routes of E7 and E7/8 such as Surgical Lust and Bam Bam, both in Wales.
I've also climbed many winter routes in the UK and several Alpine classics as well as big wall climbs and boulder problems. Big walls include a new route in the Tsaranoro Massif of Madagascar (F7c/E6 6c) and a recent trip to the Black Canyon of Gunnison, Colorado.
My hardest sport routes have been F8b, or which I have climbed several - including Magnetic Fields and Austrian Oak at Malham, Yorkshire. I've also bouldered several Font 8A problems, such as The Highlife at Parrisella's Cave and Jason's Roof at Crookrise on the gritstone.
Foto: Ian Wilson
Goals for the Future:
The immediate future for me is based in the Alps, where I am aiming to climb several classic grand courses this winter; The Eiger, Grand Jorasses etc. Then in the spring 2011 I am looking forward to visiting the Ratikon for some high standard alpine rock climbing, followed by a trip back to Wales to hopefully clear up a long standing trad project of mine there. After that - who knows.
I'm happy with my current situation as a climber, I love traveling and climbing and right now I feel as though I have the experience and the skills to operate anywhere in the world, on any style of climb. I can switch from redpointing F8b's on Spanish limestone to climbing WI6's in the alps or climbing a big wall first ascent in South America. And it is this breadth of climbing that I want to continue, and to share through my work as a journalist.
Favourite Marmot Gear:
Super Hero Jacket, Work Gloves, Alpinist Jacket.
Sponsors:
Marmot, DMM, Evolv
