Click on a news item to show the full text.
You can add yourself to our Mailing List here.

New route at the Eiger


Odyssey 8a+, 1400 meters

Bigwall first ascent of the most difficult route through the Eiger Northface!

The international European Climbing team of Robert Jasper (Germany), Roger Schaeli (Switzerland) and Simon Gitel (Italy) have established a new route on the Eiger Northface (Switzerland).

After the first all free ascent of the Japaneese -Direct (8a) 2009 Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli discovered this new line leading trough the steepest and most challenging part of this face with its always cold conditions.

During the following years, they were busy with their aim to free the big historic Direttissimas such as the Harlin-Direct with Heckmair Exit 7a,M8 1800 Meter in 2010 or the Ghilini-Direttissima 7c,1300 meters in 2013.

So they had only few days in the last years when the weather and the conditions made it possible to push forward their project of this first ascent. Conditions are everything on the Eiger this rule did not change by global warming! S

Greenland Dreams 2015


Greenland Dreams 2015 – Finnish Greenland Expedition

Tobias, a native Greenlandic hunter and all-rounder speeds the small boat trough Sermilik fjords. He steers the light boat with steady movements; we have never seen an icebergs so we’re not sure, should we be scared of them or not. In the end it doesn’t really matter as we are finally here, approaching the edge of sea and ice near the coast of mainland Greenland. We are here to ski across the whole thing. 700 kilometers to go; all across the world’s second largest glacier. Our chosen style is unsupported and unassisted from coast to coast. Two guys with a shared dream of a long and cold journey.

We arrived in Angmagssalik over a week before. Very bad weather did not allow us to start skiing; first our cargo was stuck at Kulusuk due to low visibility and later heavy winds kept things on the ground. During spring the only way t

Have a nice movie night and help Nepal!


The dZi Foundation & Porters’ Progress UK present Telluride Mountain Film London on Wednesday 16 September from 7pm – 10pm.

Check it out

She’s done it again!


Lena Hermann, adopted daughter of Franconia and Marmot PRO athlete, sent her second 8c last week – less than six months after her first. As she posted on Instagram, she found the route surprisingly easy. Read Lena’s account of the route here:

“The route “Father and Son” had already been recommended to me by a few people. This summer I went to the crag for the first time; I went a couple of times but never climbed there, because it was just too hot for me. I just belayed instead. But I kept looking up at the line and getting more and more motivated to try it. There’s this shallow crack that runs up to an overhang and I was wondering how I would climb it. Then I went back on a cooler day with a bunch of friends, and I was able to have a first proper look at the route. After just two days working it I managed to clip the chain at the top. It was the first female ascent of this route and I was absolutely delighted. It was incredibly good fun and the moves are so good that I

Marmot’s summer of running 2015


It’s been a hot summer, for sure. But that did not stop the competitors in the Marmot 24h Mountain Marathon in southern Scotland and the Walser Trail Challenge in Kleinwalsertal (Austria) from giving it everything they had. The organizers of these two extraordinary trail running events reported that the two events were a big success and the winners were very happy.

Marmot 24™

Marmot24™ is one of the small and friendly mountain running events that the mountain marathon community love. Many people will be familiar with the British mountain marathon format but less will have experience of the more international rogaining format. Marmot24™ combines the best of both, and the result is one hell of an awesome race… that is, of course, if you want heaps of mountain running, lashings of endurance and both night and day navigation? It is a very big challenge and the competitors at the 2014 and 2015 events seem universally agreed that it is the toughest mountain m

Climbing during pregnancy and beyond


Climbing during pregnancy and beyond
By Sarah Seeger

“I am pregnant” – how unfamiliar this sentence sounded to me in the beginning and how curious it made me! I had decided to let a little person into my life who would now dictate the rhythm of my daily routine and who would also affect me as a climber.

At the beginning of my pregnancy I dropped all ambitions regarding my climbing performance and took climbing as an opportunity to stay active, to meet friends and to be outdoors. I climbed literally according to my gut instinct and was glad about every day I could spend at the crag with my growing belly.

Besides that, I searched for some more fact-based information about climbing during pregnancy. However, from a medical or sport-science perspective still not much research has been done on the topic. My gyn and my midwife didn’t have much experience with pregnant climbers either (I am also not a medical expert so please don’t read this text as a medical

Matilda Söderlund returns to Marmot


Top Swedish climber Matilda Söderlund is excited about returning to the Marmot PRO Athletes Team.

After two years working with a Swedish company, Matilda Söderlund is now back in the Marmot PRO Team. “I’m looking forward to working closely with Marmot in the next few years,” she tells us. After just a few days climbing and checking out the brand new Summer 2016 Rock Collection during a photo shoot in her native Sweden, Matilda was impressed. She is currently away on a climbing trip to France and Switzerland and has an ambitious list of projects, including several routes in the 8b/8b+ range and maybe even an 8c. Needless to say, we are all pretty excited and are looking forward to getting the latest updates from Matilda.

About Matilda Söderlund:

Top Swedish climber Matilda Söderlund (23) loves living life in the vertical environment. Since the age of 11 she has been passionate about sport climbing – in the gym, in competitions and

Summer is here and the MARMOT PROs are crushing


Summer is well and truly here across the continent and our athletes seem to be getting a lot of energy from the good weather.

On the world cup circuit we have seen some excellent performances from Marmot PRO’s Katha Saurwein, Moni Retschy, Leah Crane and Jorg Verhoeven.

Katha has put in some impressive competition results, showing great form with two 5th place positions, once in Toronto (Canada) and once in Haiyang (China), she is currently ranked 5th on the circuit. Moni Retschy has managed to get a place in the finals finishing in 5th, she is currently ranked 11th on the circuit. Leah Crane, who is enjoying her first season back on the circuit after a shoulder injury is showing great consistency and has been on the edge of the semi-finals in every round of the world cup so far, apart from Haiyang where she climbed super well and placed a brilliant 9th. Leah is currently ranked 18th on the circuit.

Our only male athlete on the circuit this year is Dutch superstar Jorg Ve

Melloblocco 2015


Val Masino / Val di Mello, 3 May 2015: The 12th edition of Melloblocco drew to a close today in Val Masino and Val di Mello, Italy. This is the biggest climbing and bouldering meeting in the world and confirmation came from the 2,500 registered participants representing 25 nations, the 5,000+ climbers and also the unique nature of the event that unites their irrepressible love for climbing with the beauty of these valleys.

This morning they set off once again. In great numbers. All chasing those last problems. All absolutely indifferent to the weather that was, how should we put it… rather damp. Perhaps because for the Melloblockers this game, just like climbing itself, never ends? Or because the energy these girls and boys, men and women have seems unending? But there’s no point in asking more questions. What is certain is that after last night’s great party, after all the music and celebrations that continued well into the early hours of the day for a fair few, it seemed as

Tourniquet 8A for Leah Crane


Marmot PRO Leah Crane has completed the steep and physical problem Tourniquet 8A on the Giant Stone in Kentmere. The problem follows an overhanging line on the underside of the aptly named Giant Stone which sits at the top of ‘Little Font’ in Kentmere. It was originally given 7C+ but the general consensus is now 8A since a hold broke a few years ago.

Leah worked the problem over four sessions last summer and fell off the finishing jug on the last session. After taking a break due to a shoulder injury, Leah returned last night with no expectations and managed it first go after reminding herself of the sequence.

Of the problem, Leah told UKC: “It is the coolest and hardest boulder problem I have done to date. Last year I invested a lot mentally and physically, to no avail. I first saw a video of the bloc online and instantly wanted to get on it. I’ve never climbed anything remotely similar to how this problem climbs, it is super beta intensive with intricate footwork (for m

Show more news »