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Climbing during pregnancy and beyond

27.07.2015

Climbing during pregnancy and beyond
By Sarah Seeger

“I am pregnant” – how unfamiliar this sentence sounded to me in the beginning and how curious it made me! I had decided to let a little person into my life who would now dictate the rhythm of my daily routine and who would also affect me as a climber.

At the beginning of my pregnancy I dropped all ambitions regarding my climbing performance and took climbing as an opportunity to stay active, to meet friends and to be outdoors. I climbed literally according to my gut instinct and was glad about every day I could spend at the crag with my growing belly.

Besides that, I searched for some more fact-based information about climbing during pregnancy. However, from a medical or sport-science perspective still not much research has been done on the topic. My gyn and my midwife didn’t have much experience with pregnant climbers either (I am also not a medical expert so please don’t read this text as a medical

Matilda Söderlund returns to Marmot

13.07.2015

Top Swedish climber Matilda Söderlund is excited about returning to the Marmot PRO Athletes Team.

After two years working with a Swedish company, Matilda Söderlund is now back in the Marmot PRO Team. “I’m looking forward to working closely with Marmot in the next few years,” she tells us. After just a few days climbing and checking out the brand new Summer 2016 Rock Collection during a photo shoot in her native Sweden, Matilda was impressed. She is currently away on a climbing trip to France and Switzerland and has an ambitious list of projects, including several routes in the 8b/8b+ range and maybe even an 8c. Needless to say, we are all pretty excited and are looking forward to getting the latest updates from Matilda.

About Matilda Söderlund:

Top Swedish climber Matilda Söderlund (23) loves living life in the vertical environment. Since the age of 11 she has been passionate about sport climbing – in the gym, in competitions and

Summer is here and the MARMOT PROs are crushing

07.07.2015

Summer is well and truly here across the continent and our athletes seem to be getting a lot of energy from the good weather.

On the world cup circuit we have seen some excellent performances from Marmot PRO’s Katha Saurwein, Moni Retschy, Leah Crane and Jorg Verhoeven.

Katha has put in some impressive competition results, showing great form with two 5th place positions, once in Toronto (Canada) and once in Haiyang (China), she is currently ranked 5th on the circuit. Moni Retschy has managed to get a place in the finals finishing in 5th, she is currently ranked 11th on the circuit. Leah Crane, who is enjoying her first season back on the circuit after a shoulder injury is showing great consistency and has been on the edge of the semi-finals in every round of the world cup so far, apart from Haiyang where she climbed super well and placed a brilliant 9th. Leah is currently ranked 18th on the circuit.

Our only male athlete on the circuit this year is Dutch superstar Jorg Ve

Melloblocco 2015

07.05.2015

Val Masino / Val di Mello, 3 May 2015: The 12th edition of Melloblocco drew to a close today in Val Masino and Val di Mello, Italy. This is the biggest climbing and bouldering meeting in the world and confirmation came from the 2,500 registered participants representing 25 nations, the 5,000+ climbers and also the unique nature of the event that unites their irrepressible love for climbing with the beauty of these valleys.

This morning they set off once again. In great numbers. All chasing those last problems. All absolutely indifferent to the weather that was, how should we put it… rather damp. Perhaps because for the Melloblockers this game, just like climbing itself, never ends? Or because the energy these girls and boys, men and women have seems unending? But there’s no point in asking more questions. What is certain is that after last night’s great party, after all the music and celebrations that continued well into the early hours of the day for a fair few, it seemed as

Tourniquet 8A for Leah Crane

25.03.2015

Marmot PRO Leah Crane has completed the steep and physical problem Tourniquet 8A on the Giant Stone in Kentmere. The problem follows an overhanging line on the underside of the aptly named Giant Stone which sits at the top of ‘Little Font’ in Kentmere. It was originally given 7C+ but the general consensus is now 8A since a hold broke a few years ago.

Leah worked the problem over four sessions last summer and fell off the finishing jug on the last session. After taking a break due to a shoulder injury, Leah returned last night with no expectations and managed it first go after reminding herself of the sequence.

Of the problem, Leah told UKC: “It is the coolest and hardest boulder problem I have done to date. Last year I invested a lot mentally and physically, to no avail. I first saw a video of the bloc online and instantly wanted to get on it. I’ve never climbed anything remotely similar to how this problem climbs, it is super beta intensive with intricate footwork (for m

A semester break with a difference!

24.03.2015

At the end of February 2015, Marmot PRO Christina Huber and her climbing partner Caroline North made the first free and unsupported female team ascent of the Via dei Ragni on Cerro Torre. The only other all female ascent of Cerro Torre was back in 2005, when Monika Kambic and Tanja Grmovsek climbed the Compressor Route. During that ascent Monika Kambic was injured by falling ice on the headwall and to reach the summit they had to jumar the crux pitch on a rope fixed by another party.
After returning from Patagonia, Christina got in touch to tell us about her trip and her experiences on Cerro Torre.

“Caro and I had talked about going to Patagonia (El Chalten) back in the summer but it was October before we finally got our flights booked. Right from the start it was clear to us that we would have to get really lucky with the weather if we were going to have any chance of doing a big peak in the short time I had available. I only had three weeks max before

Happy Birthday Stefan Glowacz!

22.03.2015

On 22 March Marmot PRO athlete and expedition climber Stefan Glowacz celebrates his 50th birthday. We would like to take this opportunity to congratulate him and to thank him for more than 12 years working with Marmot. Happy Birthday Stefan!

Read more about Stefan here.

Perfect ice in Tibet

19.03.2015

Marmot PROs Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have been searching for ice in Asia. The two athletes went to the Alps of Tibet, east of the Himalaya and found numerous ice climbing lines in the Shuangqiao valley. This is their story:

We could not see our opposite in the old smoking kitchen. To interview the old, wise man of the town the wood fired stove had to give its best. Someone could see the story of the old man in his face in every detail. He told us about the valley and its development. First there only have been two bridges in the valley. Now there is a street all along the 38 kilometers of the whole valley. Tourists come to visit the fascinating nature and mountains, which rise up to 6000 m left and right of the valley. The valley itself is around 3500 m high and Tibetan people settled into this inhospitable place. This people live their life in a very easy and pure form together with free running sheep, cows, Yaks, pigs and many other animals. An unreal, friendly mute

First free female ascent at Cerro Torre

26.02.2015

Wow what an achievement! Marmot PRO Christina Huber and her partner Caroline North just made the first free and unsupported female team ascent of the Via dei Ragni at Cerro Torre. The only other female team ascent of Cerro Torre had been done by Monika Kambic and Tanja Grmovsek back in 2005, when they climbed the Compressor Route. During that ascent Kambic got hit by falling ice in the headwall and to reach the summit they jumared the crux pitch on a rope fixed by another party. Two years ago Caro had reached the base of the last pitch with Laure Batoz from France.

Christina just wrote from Patagonia “We are more than happy!!! A childhood dream came true… probably one of the best routes in my life!” Congrats to both athletes for this impressive effort!

Stay tuned for a more detailed report in a few weeks.

You can find more information on Marmot PRO Christina Huber here christinahuber.blogspot.de.

Video Release “Stomping Grounds”

26.01.2015

Stomping Grounds! We are very happy to finally present this cool clip of Marmot PROs Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven bouldering in Colorado.

You can watch the video here.
Enjoy!

About the trip: Marmot PROs Jorg Verhoeven and Katha Saurwein return to America for an adventure in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado as an escape from the traveling life on the World Cup circuit. The duo spent one month bouldering in the high alpine of Rocky Mountain National Park where Katha was able to claim her first V13 (8B) and Jorg ticks some of the hardest climbs the area has to offer. Film produced by: Louder Than Eleven (www.lt11.com).

You can find more info about Katha and Jorg here: www.katharina-saurwein.com and www.jorgverhoeven.com.
Watch more Marmot videos here: youtube.com/MarmotEuropa.



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