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It’s that one crux move that Stefan Glowacz and Markus Dorfleitner shook off day after day, week after week, month after month and, in the end, year after year. The mysterious “Black Wall” in hell valley, on the north side of the Wetterstein mountains above Garmisch Partenkirchen in Germany.

In 2001, the professional climber and adventurer Stefan Glowacz and his friend Markus Dorfleitner, who runs a glazier in Garmisch Partenkirchen, stepped onto the 300 meter high north face. They set bolts in the compact, steep and overhanging wall and prepared everything for a sporty, flawless “red point ascent” on their new route.

“We assumed that a red point ascent, our first ascent, is purely a matter of form. If it weren’t for this complicated combination of moves on the 4th pitch. We completely underestimated the challenge for a long time“ says Stefan Glowacz.

The years passed when Stefan and Markus tried the route with more, sometimes less commitment. In recent years they have increased the intensity of their efforts, but time-consuming expeditions by Stefan or unlucky injuries that happened to Markus repeatedly thwarted a final ascent.

This year should be the showdown… Stefan and Markus are just waiting for a stable good weather period in autumn without thunderstorms. Until then, they will work on their shape and will climb the complex movement of the crux section hundreds of times in their mind’s eye. In any case, it will be an exciting autumn for both of them. To be continued…


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